Which of these two systems (conventional or sustainable) would you prefer? Why?
Sustainable
conventional drainage
conventional drainage
sustainable drainage
SUSTAINABLE
I would like to prefer to conventional drainage system.
sustainable drainage
I used to have a 20 stall barn that I leased and meaagnd though that experience, I learned a lot about what I would want if/when I built my own. I never did, I have always had to make do or make changes in an already existing facility. It had automatic waterers (heated) in the stalls, half of the barn was built against a hill, so that on one side, half of the barn was underground, the whole area above the stalls was for hay storage, to be dropped down into the feeders into the stalls. Speaking of the stalls way down under the stalls were railroad ties, then 18 of sand on that, shavings needless to say, the stalls NEVER got wet. we picked the stalls twice a day and the barn smelled like shavings and clean horses all the time..now, the waterers were always a headache..and .you NEVER knew if a horse was drinking or not and if there was ever a short in one of the waterers, and a horse got shocked even one time, he would never go back and drink from it so I turned off all of the waterers and hung buckets in the stalls and pulled a hose down the aisle to fill them still the best way, more work, but you can keep track of what is going on with your horse. Oh yes, the overhead hay storage was a dusty headache also made the barn hotter when the loft was full, and impaired the circulation, even though there were several vents. I would try not to even let anyone up there while there were horse still in the stalls because of the dust that was created by walking in the loft. One thing that I did appreciate was that half of the barn was against the dirt even in the summer, it was cool in the barn. I also consider it important to have a solid window in every stall that opens wide enough for the horse to comfortably get his head out. There are lot's of reasons for this, not to mention the fresh air, but it lessons the boredom, which in turn, lessons the weaving and cribbing and kicking the stalls. I like concrete for the washrack and alley, and it should be wide enough that horses can be tied on either side and still be groomed. Also, if the wash stall has a window, just like the stall window in it, your horses will walk in much easier because they can see out and don't feel like they are going into a dead end you can always close it when you get your horse tied. Of course, you will want a hot water heater just for the wash rack. If money isn't an issue, a small bathroom is a must, and well planned, locked tackrooms I always dreamed of having, within the large tackrooms, partitions for each individual's tack that they could lock up and know that their stuff would never be used or touched by anyone else while they were gone. Keep in mind, everyone that boarded there wasn't family, so that was a big issue that had to be addressed on a regular basis. Boy, I could go on and on guess I already have. No, I don't like mats, have tried them, would rather have good drainage with shavings. I personally don't like cross ties, but every stable has them and uses them, and most of the time, successfully but then there is always the horse that just flips, for no reason, and you have to haul them off seriously. I would prefer individual places in front of the stall meant for tying, along with a blanket bar out of reach of where the horse can't chew Oh yeah, a doctoring/clipping chute somewhere in an out of the way, but well lit area guess I'd better stop, we all have lots of ideas..hope this helps a little and one more thing, you NEVER have too many lights with convenient places for switches.
I have a smaller tack room than you, and while its tikrcy, it can be done. Of course, it does depend on the amount of tack you own, especially how many saddles as they take up alot of space.Obviously you need a saddle rack for each saddle. Unless you are really in a bind, try to not put one saddle on top of another (I know its tempting if you have a small youth saddle that doesn't get used much) For one thing, its easy to get marks on the saddle leather from that, but even worse, the space between the saddles is a perfect mouse haven. No matter how good your room is, you are likely to get a mouse or two, and they can do huge damage between saddles if you don't catch them immediantely.With a small room you are going to want to use your wall space really efficianetly. Done well you can have all your bridles, halters, spare bits, spare girths, fencing equipment, hanging inside, almost the same way as a tack store hangs their equipment. One of the nicest looking and most economical setups I ever saw to hang bridles and show halters was take a narrow tree about 3-4 inches in diameter and saw wedges from the tree so you have all these round pieces. They each need to be a couple of inches deep. Using a single screw or spike, hammer these wood circles in a row onto a long board and voila you have a perfect place to hang your leather and keep it from losing shape. For hanging smaller objects such as bits and girths spikes can work well in the wall, just remember to not hang any leather objects from something narrow like a spike.You will need a trunk of some sort to store out of season or seldom used items such as winter blankets, show pads, leg wraps, etc. A trunk can double as a bench, or you can also stack other items on top of it (such as your grooming box, etc) If you don't have a proper trunk, buy large rubber maid type containers with secure lids to store items. If you go this route, take a indeliable marker and write on the lid what items you are storing inside. It will make it much easier to find where the slinkies and other items are.I personally do not store my first aid items outside. The extremes of heat and cold are very hard on any liquids and medications, so I keep them in. I figure since part of my first aid stuff is inside my house, the entire bit should be, so that is one less thing for my tack shed.You can make your own blanket bars by using chain link and narrow pvc pipe, you simple thread the chain through the pipe. By using wire you can make a nice, long row so you can hang a number of blankets together. This will protect your blankets from mice (but isn't a guarantee) plus it will allow them to air out.I bought a small plastic set of drawers on wheels from Wal-Mart to store small objects that don't need to be kept away from mice. You will need a place to keep the million other small items such as farrier tools, spurs, etc.Buy a set or two of portable hooks. You can use them for halters, but they are also handy to hang helmets and other items up. And you can easily grab them and take them with you when you go to a show.I keep my manure fork, broom, etc outside of the tack shed because I don't have space for large items. Same for the wheelbarrel. Its almost impossible to keep a small area open, but you are going to want to do whatever you can to avoid overcrowding. Mice just love a crowded, cluttered area, they can get in there and burrow and not be discovered for quite a long time. If possible keep things open and you'll stop some damage. I also use saddle covers to keep the dust off saddles, especially over the winter when they will sit for a while. I put the blankets and everything away in the trunk or boxes over the winter to prevent dust or possible moisture as well.Lastly, try to find a way to not store any grain or feed items inside your tack shed. You will attract alot more mice if there is any grain spilled. I keep Bar Bait which is a mouse killer, in my tack shed behind the tack trunk. I have it in a small glass jar with a narrow top (such as a Welsh grape juice jar) That way a cat that stumbles across the poison can't easily reach it. I also keep baited mouse traps in several locations. If there is EVER any possibility that a child or pet would be able to access the Bar Bait, do NOT use it. Better to have a few live mice than a dead child or pet. In my case, my children are grown, I have no other children that play there, my cats never are inside and the location where I keep it would be very difficult for a stray pet to access, but something as a small as a mouse could get there.Obviously, you can tell I've had problems with vermin! But in my experience mouse proof is tough enough in a house, and almost impossible in a barn. And they can literally do thousands of dollars worth of damage if they get into the lining in your saddle or chew show leather goods!Good luck with your building. Of course, build as big as possible, but if bigger isn't possible, then use every inch as wisely as you can!